| One hundred years after surfing was resurrected along the beaches of Waikiki, the Hawaiian Islands remain as the sport's geographic, historic and symbolic center. By looking closely at three renowned breaks -- Waimea Bay and Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, and Maui's Honolua Bay -- this edition of the Surfer's Journal is able to take full measure of the Hawaiian surfing experience, including the legend and lore, the amazing tuberides and the horrifying wipeouts, the crowds, politics, busted boards, hair-outs, contests, brawls and tall tales. Kelly Slater remembers both the pleasure and the pressure of winning the 1995 world title in flawless surf at Pipeline. Ian Cairns describes the Waimea wipeout that changed his life. Mark Richards chocks back tears of joy (damn near) recalling his tube of the season at Honolua Bay in 1976. |
